Benefits of Combinations of Vitamin A, C and E Derivatives in the Stability of Cosmetic Formulations

Chemically stable ester derivatives of vitamins A, C and E have become a focus of interest for their role in the satisfactory results in skin aging treatments. Accordingly, the aim of this study was to evaluate the physical and chemical stability of a cosmetic formulation containing 1% retinyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and tocopheryl acetate, alone or in combination. In the studies of physical stability, a Brookfield rheometer was used to determine rheological behavior of formulations containing the vitamins. Chemical stability was determined by HPLC on a Shimadzu system with UV detection. Results showed that formulations had pseudoplastic behavior and that vitamins did not alter their apparent viscosity and thixotropy. In the chemical stability studies, first-order reaction equations were used for determinations of the shelf-life of vitamins derivatives considering a remaining concentration of 85%. Combined vitamins in a single formulation had a slightly lower degradation rate as compared to different preparations containing only one of the vitamins. Considering that many cosmetic formulations contain vitamin combinations it is suggested that the present study may contribute to the development of more stable formulations containing liposoluble vitamins.

Effect of ultraviolet filters on skin superoxide dismutase activity in hairless mice after a single dose of ultraviolet radiation

Organic sunscreens may decrease their protective capability and also behave as photo-oxidants upon ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure. The present study investigated the effect of a cream gel formulation containing the UV filters benzophenone-3, octyl methoxycinnamate, and octyl salicylate on skin superoxide dismutase (SOD) after a single dose of UVR (2.87 J/cm(2)). The retention of these UV filters was first evaluated in vivo using hairless mice to guarantee the presence of the filters in the skin layers at the moment of irradiation. The in vivo effect of the UV filters on skin SOD was then assayed spectrophotometrically via the reduction of cytochrome c. The cream gel formulation promoted the penetration of the three UV filters into the epidermis and the dermis at one hour post-application. A significant decrease in SOD activity was observed in irradiated animals treated with sunscreen formulation. However, no effect on SOD activity in skin was observed by the isolated presence of the sunscreens, the formulation components, or the exposure to UVR. The sunscreens may have formed degradation products under UVR that may have either inhibited the enzyme or generated reactive species in the skin. (C) 2011 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

DNA Dosimetry Assessment for Sunscreen Genotoxic Photoprotection

Background: Due to the increase of solar ultraviolet radiation (UV) incidence over the last few decades, the use of sunscreen has been widely adopted for skin protection. However, considering the high efficiency of sunlight-induced DNA lesions, it is critical to improve upon the current approaches that are used to evaluate protection factors. An alternative approach to evaluate the photoprotection provided by sunscreens against daily UV radiation-induced DNA damage is provided by the systematic use of a DNA dosimeter. Methodology/Principal Findings: The Sun Protection Factor for DNA (DNA-SPF) is calculated by using specific DNA repair enzymes, and it is defined as the capacity for inhibiting the generation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD) and oxidised DNA bases compared with unprotected control samples. Five different commercial brands of sunscreen were initially evaluated, and further studies extended the analysis to include 17 other products representing various formulations and Sun Protection Factors (SPF). Overall, all of the commercial brands of SPF 30 sunscreens provided sufficient protection against simulated sunlight genotoxicity. In addition, this DNA biosensor was useful for rapidly screening the biological protection properties of the various sunscreen formulations. Conclusions/Significance: The application of the DNA dosimeter is demonstrated as an alternative, complementary, and reliable method for the quantification of sunscreen photoprotection at the level of DNA damage.

Transparent UV-absorbers thin films of zinc oxide: Ceria system synthesized via sol-gel process

Transparent nanostructure ZnO:CeO2 and ZnO thin films to use as solar protector were prepared by non-alkoxide sol-gel process and deposited on boronsilicate glass substrate by dip-coating technique and then heated at 300-500 degrees C. The films were characterized structurally, morphologically and optically by X-ray diffraction (XRD), atomic force microscopy (AFM), field emission gun-scanning electron microscopy (FEG-SEM), scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and UV-Vis transmittance spectroscopy. The coatings presented high transparency in the visible region and excellent absorption in the UV. The band gap of the deposited films was estimated between 3.10 and 3.18 eV. Absorption of the films in the UV was increased by presence of cerium. The results suggest that the materials are promising candidates to use as coating solar protective. (C) 2012 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.